“Ceramides” are a buzzword in the skincare industry, often heralded as a miracle ingredient for dry and sensitive skin. You’ll find them in a wide range of products, from creams and serums to a variety of other cosmetics.
The general perception is that ceramides are incredibly effective moisturizers. As a company involved in the development and manufacturing of skincare products, this “miracle ingredient” caught our attention, prompting us to delve deeper into the science behind ceramides.
However, our research revealed a significant misunderstanding: the “amazing effects” often attributed to ceramides are, in fact, the benefits of “intercellular lipids” present in the skin. It turns out that ceramides alone aren’t the star of the show; it’s the intercellular lipids that truly make a difference.
Upon digging deeper, we found that the exceptional barrier and moisturizing effects credited to ceramides are actually due to the structure and composition of these intercellular lipids. These lipids aren’t just made of ceramides; they also include cholesterol, free fatty acids, and cholesterol sulfate. Together, these components establish the vital role of intercellular lipids in skin health.
Somewhere along the line, the skincare community conflated the effects of ceramides with the benefits of intercellular lipids. Whether this is because ceramides are a major component of these lipids is unclear, but it’s a misconception that needs addressing.
In the following sections, we’ll unpack this widespread misunderstanding in greater detail.
The Effects Are Not From Ceramides, but From Intercellular Lipids
While searching for the basis of the claim that “ceramides have amazing effects,” I arrived at this conclusion: the amazing effects are actually due to “intercellular lipids,” not ceramides.
The high barrier and moisturizing effects are not the result of ceramides alone but are attributed to “intercellular lipids.”
Similarly, the effectiveness of barrier functions and moisturizing abilities is not due to ceramides but is a result of the “structure of intercellular lipids.”
It’s not just ceramides; the role of intercellular lipids is established when cholesterol, free fatty acids, and cholesterol sulfate come together. Ceramides alone cannot fulfill the role of intercellular lipids. Yet, somehow, the equation “effects of ceramides = role of intercellular lipids” has been confused.
Whether this misunderstanding arises because ceramides are abundant in intercellular lipids is unknown. However, it seems many people are mistaken about this.
In this chapter, we will discuss in detail the significant misconception that many people have.
A Big Misunderstanding About the Effects of Ceramide Cosmetics
Ceramides and intercellular lipids are not the same, yet a pervasive misconception has led many to believe otherwise.
The essential barrier and moisturizing effects that are crucial for our skin’s health actually come from the intricate “lamellar structure” of intercellular lipids. This is especially important in cases of atopic skin, a severe skin condition that often features lower levels of ceramides, which make up about half of these intercellular lipids.
“Ceramides” and “intercellular lipids” are completely different things.
If by any chance they are assimilated with intercellular lipids, the excellent barrier function and moisturizing effect of intercellular lipids will disappear.
It may even bring serious risks to our bodies.
Now, let’s take a closer look at the work of intercellular lipids.
Components of Intercellular Lipids
Ceramides are an integral part of intercellular lipids, known primarily for their “barrier” and “moisturizing” capabilities.
These properties make ceramides a potent skincare ingredient, especially beneficial for conditions like sensitive and dry skin, where the natural moisture barrier is compromised.
Why is this the case? The answer lies in the role that ceramides play within intercellular lipids.
Located in the stratum corneum — as thin as a mere 0.02mm layer of plastic wrap — ceramides are found amid 10-20 layers of corneal cells and intercellular lipids. In terms of composition, around 90% of the stratum corneum is made up of corneal cells, with the remaining 10% comprising intercellular lipids.
So, what makes up these intercellular lipids? They consist of ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids, and cholesterol sulfate. In terms of proportions, ceramides make up approximately 50%, cholesterol around 25%, free fatty acids about 21%, and cholesterol sulfate roughly 4%. Thus, ceramides account for nearly half of the composition of intercellular lipids.
Understanding the Lamellar Structure of Intercellular Lipids
Next, let’s delve into the structure of intercellular lipids, which include ceramides, and possess what is known as a “lamellar structure.”
The term “lamellar” refers to a “layered” structure. Intercellular lipids, beginning with ceramides, form alternating layers of water and oil due to their inherent molecular properties. This structure resembles a mille-feuille pastry in its composition.
Components like ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol each exhibit both hydrophilic and hydrophobic traits. These characteristics enable them to organize water and oil in a precise, layered arrangement, somewhat akin to how surfactants work, albeit in a different context.
Roles and Functions of Intercellular Lipids
Moving on, let’s explore the roles and effects of these lamellar-structured intercellular lipids, particularly those that contain ceramides. The skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum, is primarily made up of cells known as “corneocytes.”
These corneocytes are essentially “glued” together by intercellular lipids, serving as a natural adhesive.
Moreover, the lamellar structure provides an effective barrier against external irritants. Water-soluble irritants are thwarted by the oil layers, and oil-soluble irritants are obstructed by the water layers.
Even if one layer is compromised, the structure comprises about ten layers, ensuring that the subsequent layer will offer additional protection. This makes the lamellar structure highly effective as a barrier.
Additionally, the multi-layered lamellar structure has excellent moisture-retaining properties, preventing the loss of essential hydration from the skin.
In summary, intercellular lipids, especially those containing ceramides, play a crucial role in maintaining skin health due to their unique structural and functional attributes.
Topical Ceramides Don’t Boost the Body’s Natural Ceramides
As we age, the quantity of ceramides in our intercellular lipids diminishes. Alongside this, other moisture-retaining components in the skin also generally decline, leading to drier, rougher skin over time.
In response, some cosmetic companies claim, “If your skin’s natural elements are depleting, why not replenish them with our products?” Until not too long ago, ingredients like collagen, hyaluronic acid, and placenta were all the rage.
However, it’s important to note that topical application of cosmetics doesn’t increase the levels of these substances in your body. Collagen, hyaluronic acid, and placenta are situated deeper than the stratum corneum, so cosmetic ingredients cannot penetrate deeply enough to affect them.
Ceramides, however, are a different story. They are found in the stratum corneum and are therefore accessible to topical treatments. This has contributed to the growing popularity of ceramides in skincare.
The prevailing belief is that ceramides in cosmetics penetrate the stratum corneum and merge with the existing intercellular lipid ceramides. This, in turn, is thought to enhance the skin’s barrier function and moisture retention as you age.
But this is a misconception. Topically applied ceramides don’t actually increase the body’s own natural ceramides. Human physiology isn’t that straightforward.
Furthermore, it’s worth pointing out that the idea of “boosting intercellular lipid ceramides with cosmetic ceramides” would actually be considered a violation of pharmaceutical law. If ceramides in skincare products truly had the capability to increase the body’s own ceramides, it could pose risks.
Let’s examine this topic in greater detail.
Claiming that “Cosmetic Ceramides Increase Intercellular Lipid Ceramides” Violates Pharmaceutical Regulations
Firstly, it’s important to clarify that stating “cosmetic ceramides can increase your skin’s natural ceramides” is in violation of pharmaceutical laws. These laws, set by the Ministry of Health, Labor, and Welfare, officially go by the title “Law concerning Securing Quality, Efficacy and Safety of Products Including Pharmaceuticals and Medical Devices.”
Under this law, cosmetics are defined as products “applied to the skin with the primary objectives of cleansing or beautifying, and which have mild effects.”
Cosmetics are daily essentials for many and are deeply integrated into our lives. Hence, it would be problematic if they caused health issues. Therefore, they are categorized as items with “mild effects.”
The claim that “applying ceramide-containing cosmetics will merge with and increase your skin’s existing ceramides” falls outside this definition of having a “mild effect.” If ceramides were capable of such actions, they would be classified as pharmaceuticals rather than cosmetics.
The fact that ceramides are ingredients in cosmetics supports the argument that they are items with “mild effects” and do not have pharmaceutical properties like “increasing the body’s natural ceramides.”
For more detailed information about the regulations concerning cosmetic advertising, please consult the “2017 Guidelines for Proper Advertising of Cosmetics” on the Ministry of Health, Labor, and Welfare’s website. Additionally, the website of the “Japan Cosmetic Industry Association,” established to further the development of the cosmetic industry and improve public well-being, also provides comprehensive and easy-to-understand guidelines, and is highly recommended for those interested in learning more.
Increasing Bodily Ceramides Through Cosmetics Could Be Hazardous
As we age, the components that contribute to the skin’s beauty and hydration diminish, leading to drier skin, wrinkles, and spots. The notion that simply increasing these components can perpetually maintain youthful skin is misguided.
Contrarily, doing so may even harm the skin. If cosmetic ceramides were to actually increase the levels of ceramides in intercellular lipids, it could throw off the delicate balance of these lipids, negating the beneficial effects of ceramides and posing potential health risks.
The Barrier Function Could Be Compromised by Increased Ceramides
If ceramides from cosmetics were to increase intercellular lipid ceramides, a significant contradiction would emerge concerning their “barrier effect.” Ceramides in intercellular lipids play a critical role in creating this barrier effect via their lamellar structure. This barrier effectively prevents external intrusion, including that of ceramides found in cosmetics.
We often receive questions like, “If ceramides penetrate up to the stratum corneum, won’t they increase the ceramides in intercellular lipids since they are compatible?” While this argument seems plausible, it’s fundamentally incorrect.
Firstly, the ceramides found in cosmetic products are not identical to those in intercellular lipids. Ceramides only make up a portion of intercellular lipids, and their increase through external application could disrupt the balance of ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acids, and cholesterol sulfate that constitute these lipids.
Such an imbalance is not trivial. From my own experience in formulating cosmetics, even slight alterations in ingredient proportions can result in drastically different products. Likewise, intercellular lipids would “deteriorate” into entirely different substances if their component balance were disturbed, causing them to lose their essential barrier function.
In summary, if externally applied ceramides were to increase intercellular lipid ceramides, the critical barrier function of these lipids would be compromised.
To date, there is no evidence to confirm this theory. If it were as straightforward as applying ceramides to increase intercellular lipid levels, then a mixture of 25% cholesterol, 21% free fatty acids, and 4% cholesterol sulfate should suffice in creating new intercellular lipids. Injecting this into the stratum corneum should, in theory, rejuvenate the skin. However, this is far from the truth.
Elevated Ceramide Levels Could Pose a Risk of Blood Vessel Obstruction
If ceramides from cosmetics were to be absorbed into the ceramides of intercellular lipids, it would imply a breach of the lipid barrier function. In such a scenario, ceramides would not only break through the skin’s lipid barrier but also potentially enter the bloodstream.
Upon breaching the skin’s barrier and infiltrating deeper layers, ceramides could make their way into the capillaries. Being oil-soluble substances, ceramides pose the risk of clogging blood vessels if they were to enter the bloodstream.
In this light, ceramides could become a “hazardous beauty ingredient” that poses life-threatening risks. However, it’s important to note that regulatory agencies like the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare would not approve an ingredient posing such serious risks.
On the flip side, the longstanding approval of ceramide as a cosmetic ingredient serves as an assurance that it is a “safe beauty ingredient,” free from such severe risks.
What Does the Cosmetic Ingredient Ceramide Actually Do?
Ceramide is a category of sphingolipids, making it an oil-soluble component. Contrary to popular belief, ceramides aren’t directly responsible for moisturizing the skin. Moisturization refers to the ability to lock in water, and since ceramides are oil-soluble, they can’t hydrate the skin by themselves.
Lacking water content, applying ceramide alone essentially means that you are only coating your skin with oil, rather than truly moisturizing it. To achieve moisturization, water must be introduced. Ceramides then act as a barrier to prevent excessive water loss, thereby aiding in moisture retention.
As a cosmetic ingredient, ceramide is part of the oil-soluble class of substances. Its functions include preventing water evaporation, protecting against external irritants, and softening the skin.
In this way, while ceramides themselves are not hydrating, they can contribute to skin’s overall moisture retention when paired with water-based ingredients.
What is the Actual Impact of Ceramide?
After diving into specialized discussions, let’s distill the key points here. In summary:
- The attributes of an excellent barrier and moisturizing function are attributed to “intercellular lipids,” not “ceramide.”
- While “ceramide” is a part of “intercellular lipids,” its levels cannot be boosted using cosmetics.
- Ceramides in cosmetics and those in intercellular lipids are not the same.
- In cosmetics, “ceramide” mainly serves the function of “oil replenishment,” akin to standard emulsions.
Don’t expect it to have special effects that boost “intercellular lipids,” which are essential for skin hydration and barrier function. Claims that “cosmetic ceramide increases intercellular lipid ceramide” should be treated with caution, as they may violate pharmaceutical regulations.
If Ceramide Isn’t the Magic Bullet, What’s Next?
As discussed, ceramide in cosmetics primarily acts as an “oil replenisher” similar to other emulsions. Therefore, if you plan to use skincare products containing ceramide, you’ll also need hydrating products like lotions to supply moisture to your skin. It’s crucial to provide both “water” and “oil” in the right balance for effective moisturization.
However, it’s worth noting that ceramide is still a valuable cosmetic ingredient. I’m not suggesting it has no effect, but overstating its abilities as if it were medicinal or superior to other cosmetic ingredients is misleading.
When selecting the right skincare product, it’s not just about the individual ingredients. Consider factors like skin compatibility and third-party quality assessments.
Speaking from personal experience with sensitive and dry skin, I know the struggle of finding the right skincare products. I would like to recommend a specific “moisturizing skincare product” tailored for those with sensitive skin. While it doesn’t contain ceramide, it has passed stringent skin safety and efficacy tests, promising significant hydration benefits.
Our Top Pick for Intense Hydration: The All-in-One Aquatect Gel
If you’re seeking intense hydration in a single product, look no further than Aquatect Gel!
Designed with a focus on deep moisturization, Aquatect Gel is ideal for those struggling with dry skin. With just one bottle, you can achieve the essential hydration your skin needs, eliminating the need for multiple foundational skincare products like lotions, emulsions, and creams. This not only simplifies your routine but also minimizes skin irritation by reducing friction to just one-third of what a regular skincare routine would cause. The result is noticeably firmer, more hydrated skin.
Consistent use of Aquatect Gel has been shown to significantly boost skin moisture levels after just four weeks.
By incorporating Aquatect Gel, specifically formulated for superior hydration, you’ll help your dry skin find its ideal moisture balance.
To learn more about Aquatect Gel, click here!
The Efficacy of Cosmetic Ceramides on Atopic Dermatitis Is Overstated
Contrary to popular belief, there’s no definitive evidence to suggest that ceramides are effective in treating atopic dermatitis. The assumption that “ceramides are powerful and therefore useful for atopic skin” is primarily based on experimental data showing that individuals with atopic dermatitis have lower levels of ceramides in their skin’s intercellular lipids. While it’s true that such individuals have reduced ceramide levels, it’s not just ceramides but also other intercellular lipids that are diminished.
As we’ve previously discussed, using cosmetics that contain ceramides doesn’t actually elevate the levels of ceramides in intercellular lipids. So, if the claim that ceramides benefit atopic skin were accurate, it would mean that “ceramide-containing cosmetics somehow improve atopic dermatitis through another mechanism.”
However, ceramides are simply cosmetic ingredients, not medical treatments. Therefore, it’s inaccurate to assert that they have a specialized effectiveness for atopic skin conditions.
The notion that ceramides are particularly beneficial for atopic dermatitis seems puzzling, given that their properties are similar to other oil-soluble ingredients. Intrigued by this discrepancy, I delved into the origins of this claim and found two sources that assert ceramides are beneficial for atopic skin.
Scrutinizing Ceramides in “Atopic Dermatitis Clinical Guidelines 2016”
To explore the efficacy of ceramides on skin affected by atopic dermatitis, we turn to the most credible source—the “Atopic Dermatitis Clinical Guidelines” published by the Japanese Dermatological Association. These guidelines serve as a reliable reference for medical practitioners.
If the guidelines stated something like “ceramides bring about significant improvements in atopic skin,” the debate surrounding the effectiveness of ceramides would be settled. So, I reviewed the 2016 version of these guidelines.
For those interested, you can read it here → “Atopic Dermatitis Clinical Guidelines (2016).”
Within the guidelines, I encountered the term “ceramide” just once. It was mentioned as one of the intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum that plays a role in maintaining the skin’s barrier function. This reference is insufficient to claim that ceramides are effective against atopic skin, prompting me to scrutinize the guidelines further.
Upon a second review, I found text that seemed to lay the groundwork for the notion that ceramides are effective for atopic skin. In summary, the guidelines state:
- Topical moisturizing medications don’t cure atopic symptoms but can minimize side effects and frequency of use when combined with anti-inflammatory medications like steroids.
- Using these after treatment can alleviate the damage, itching, and pain associated with atopy.
- However, caution is advised as they may cause contact dermatitis.
Although the guidelines mention the general efficacy of topical medications for atopic skin, there is no specific mention of ceramides’ effect on atopic dermatitis.
Investigating “Atopic Dermatitis Treatment Guidelines 2008”
Next, let’s consider the “Atopic Dermatitis Treatment Guidelines 2008,” which outlines specific treatments recommended by clinicians. These guidelines mention that topical medications have some effectiveness on atopic conditions. They primarily refer to vaseline, zinc oxide ointment, and urea-containing formulations, among others, which are often oil-rich creams. Since these are medical prescriptions, insurance generally covers them.
Again, ceramides were not mentioned in these 2008 guidelines. Upon further research, I discovered that “moisturizing topical medication” is synonymous with “moisturizer.” In fact, the guidelines refer to both cosmetics and medications as moisturizing topical medications, thus explaining why the term “moisturizer” appears in parentheses. While some moisturizers do contain ceramides, the guidelines offer no specific assertion that ceramides are effective for atopic skin.
In summary, no conclusive evidence was found in either set of guidelines to support the claim that ceramides significantly improve atopic skin conditions. Given that “individuals with atopic dermatitis have reduced ceramide levels in their skin,” it seems there’s an attempt to misleadingly imply that ceramides have medicinal properties.
Examining the Efficacy of Ceramides Through the Lens of a Pharmaceutical Company
Let’s entertain the idea that ceramides have medicinal properties similar to steroids. If this were true, ceramides would already exist as a pharmaceutical formulation. Indeed, some cosmetic ingredients are so potent that one might question their suitability for cosmetic use. Such ingredients are often subject to strict regulations concerning their concentration and volume in cosmetic products.
Typically, these powerful ingredients have their origins in the pharmaceutical industry and have transitioned into cosmetics due to corporate influence. Therefore, if ceramides had a superior moisturizing effect compared to existing cosmetic ingredients, they would likely be found in pharmaceutical products first, eventually making their way into cosmetics.
Yet, this is not the case for ceramides; they have consistently been used as cosmetic ingredients. Now, let’s consider ceramides from the perspective of a pharmaceutical company.
The Allure of Ceramides’ “Safety” from a Pharmaceutical Standpoint
Ceramides are highly recognized for their safety as cosmetic ingredients—there’s no question about it. Generally speaking, the emphasis on safety is greater for cosmetic ingredients than their actual effects.
In contrast, pharmaceuticals focus more on efficacy, often tolerating a certain level of side effects. If ceramides could substantially improve dry or atopic skin when applied topically, the benefits would be immense.
Even if the efficacy of ceramides were comparable to existing drugs, or even just half as effective, their superior safety profile could make them an attractive alternative. Many people are wary of the side effects associated with steroids, so a safer option, even if less effective, would be appealing.
I frequently receive queries like, “Is there an alternative to steroids?” and “Is there a treatment as effective as steroids?” In this context, ceramides have an undeniable advantage—safety—which almost ensures marketability.
If ceramides truly offered significant improvements for atopic conditions, it would make sense for them to be developed into a pharmaceutical product. Yet, this hasn’t happened to date.
Next, we’ll explore this issue from the angles of market trends and popularity.
The Appeal of Ceramides’ Popularity from a Pharmaceutical Standpoint
Examining Google Trends for the Search Term “Ceramide” The graph illustrates search trends for ceramides in blue, astaxanthin in red, and coenzyme Q10 in yellow. Discovered in 1950, ceramides have been garnering attention since around the 1980s. To put this into perspective, let’s look at Google Trends data for ceramide searches over the past decade.
Comparing this data with coenzyme Q10 and astaxanthin—two beauty ingredients that cosmetic companies have heavily invested in promoting—the blue dashed line shows that ceramides have an extraordinarily high and ascending search profile.
How Ceramides Stack Up Against Other Leading Beauty Ingredients When the search numbers for ceramides are compared to what I call the “big three of beauty”—collagen in red, hyaluronic acid in yellow, and placenta in green—they don’t quite measure up. However, ceramides are likely among the top 5 most popular cosmetic ingredients at the moment.
For anyone with an interest in skincare, asking, “Have you heard of ceramides?” would likely yield few responses of “No, never heard of it.”
Given their storied history and widespread recognition, ceramides would undoubtedly attract the attention of pharmaceutical companies—if they had extraordinary effects. In the pharmaceutical industry, the development of unique drugs is the end game (though there are exceptions, such as generic drugs).
With a 25-year patent lifespan for pharmaceuticals, if ceramides were to be recognized for their significant benefits and classified as a drug, a company could monopolize the profits for a quarter-century. This would be a golden opportunity.
Yet, no such initiatives are evident at present.
Ceramides Lack the Qualities to be Classified as Pharmaceuticals
As mentioned earlier, pharmaceutical patents are generally valid for 25 years, compared to the standard 20-year lifespan for other patents. This additional 5-year period accounts for the time needed for safety trials and governmental reviews. Given this prolonged vetting process, it’s clear that a considerable investment of time and resources is required to develop a pharmaceutical product.
If ceramides had the potential to transition into pharmaceuticals, it would be reasonable to expect a substantial body of evidence—scholarly papers, efficacy studies, safety tests—to support this. Yet, despite their notoriety in the cosmetics sector, ceramides remain notably absent from pharmaceutical research discussions.
This lack of scientific scrutiny suggests that ceramides do not meet the criteria required for medicinal classification.
It’s worth noting that other ingredients commonly found in cosmetics, such as placenta and hyaluronic acid, have been recognized as pharmaceutical products. The fact that ceramides have not gained similar approval as pharmaceuticals implies that they likely do not possess extraordinary benefits beyond what current cosmetic ingredients offer.
Common Questions About Ceramides
Here are some frequently asked questions and common misconceptions about ceramides.
Can You Get Ceramides from Food?
Yes, you can find ceramides in certain foods and consume them that way. However, the ceramides you eat won’t provide the same benefits as the ceramides naturally occurring in your skin. They are just one nutrient among many others like proteins that contribute to skin health. A balanced diet is key.
Do Ceramides Affect Acne?
As of now, the answer is “No.” The 2016 Atopic Dermatitis Clinical Guidelines discuss the impact of topical medications on atopic dermatitis but do not reference ceramides. Similarly, no evidence currently supports the notion that ceramides are effective against acne.
Are Ceramides Beneficial for Hair?
Absolutely, ceramides serve as vital moisturizers for both skin and hair. However, simply adding ceramides to your hair doesn’t guarantee improved quality.
Summary of Ceramides’ Effects:
- Ceramides in cosmetic products do not increase the skin’s natural ceramide levels.
- Ceramides don’t cure atopic dermatitis.
- The beautifying effect comes mainly from intracellular lipids.
- Ceramides are excellent additions to cosmetic formulations.
Clarification:
I’m not asserting that ceramides are ineffective. Rather, they’ve been overstated as if they possess medicinal or dramatically enhanced properties, which is misleading. My aim is to provide a balanced perspective.
Summary
My research indicates that the purported ‘amazing effects’ of ceramides lack a solid scientific foundation; they are typical cosmetic ingredients. This isn’t limited to ceramides—many ingredients thought to have miraculous benefits are just as ordinary.
Therefore, you can’t judge a cosmetic product’s efficacy and safety solely based on its individual ingredients. This is particularly significant for those struggling with skin issues, as focusing solely on individual ingredients like ceramides won’t yield the desired results.
If you have sensitive skin, I recommend reading “No More Stinging! How to Choose Sensitive Skin-Friendly Cosmetics That Perfectly Fit Your Skin.” This guide will help you identify products that are suitable for your unique skin needs.
As someone with sensitive and dry skin myself, I understand the difficulties of finding the right skincare products. I hope my insights prove valuable to you.
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